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Wort&Keg

Roundup

The Best Conical Fermenters for Mead

A cone earns its keep on a fruited mead and works against you on a long-aged traditional. Here is the distinction nobody draws.

ByBrijon M.

Last updated

How we pick

The short answer

A conical fermenter helps with mead when you are making fruited melomels with heavy lees, because the cone lets you dump sediment without racking. It works against you for long-aged traditional mead, where a part-full conical's wide flat liquid surface is the wrong geometry. Use a cone for primary, glass or a floating-lid tank for aging.

Plastic conical fermenter on a stand with a dump valve

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At a glance

Quick picks

#ProductBest forPrice
1
Plastic conical fermenter on a stand with a dump valve

Best conical for mead

Craft A Brew Catalyst Fermentation System

A true cone with a bottom dump valve in clear PET. Dumping fruit lees without racking is exactly what a cone is for on a melomel, and being able to see the layer drop is genuinely useful.

Fruited melomels with heavy lees, and brewers who want to see it happen
2
Clear conical pressure fermenter with a collection butt

Best pressure-capable option

FermZilla Tri-Conical 27 L

The collection butt dumps fruit lees cleanly, and with the pressure kit you can push the mead to its aging vessel under CO2 rather than siphoning through air.

Mead makers who want closed transfer to a glass aging vessel
3
Welded stainless conical fermenter with tri-clamp ports

Best stainless cone

Spike Brewing CF5 Conical Fermenter

Welded stainless with a dump valve and pressure capability. If you already have one, it is an excellent mead primary and you lose nothing by using it.

Mead makers who already own one for beer
4
Glass demijohn with a bung and airlock

Where the mead goes next

Glass Demijohn 5-6 Gallon

The honest companion to any conical mead primary. Narrow neck, perfect oxygen barrier, and cheap enough to own several.

The months of aging after primary
5
Variable capacity stainless wine tank with a floating lid

The one vessel that does both

Variable-Capacity Stainless Wine Tank

A floating lid eliminates headspace at every volume, so one vessel can ferment and then age without a transfer or a topping-up routine.

Mead makers who want a single vessel from pitch to bottle

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Where a cone helps and hurts for mead

PhaseCone helpsCone hurts
Primary, fruited melomelDump fruit lees without racking--
Primary, traditionalClean lees drop--
Secondary, 2-3 monthsNeutralHeadspace if part full
Long aging, 6-12 months--Wide flat surface to headspace
Transfer outValve, no siphon--

An orange rule marks the better of the two on that row.

Why this page exists

Nobody separates primary from aging

Search for a conical fermenter for mead and you get beer content, or beginner kit lists. Nobody draws the distinction that actually matters: a cone is useful for one phase of a mead’s life and counterproductive for another, and the answer depends on which phase you are asking about.

This is the same material-versus-geometry point that runs through this hub, and it is worth stating plainly.

Where a cone genuinely helps

Fruit, and lots of it

The strongest case for a conical mead vessel is a melomel -- a fruited mead. Fruit contributes substantial solids: pulp, skins, seeds and pectin haze all settle out, and the lees layer from a heavily fruited mead is thick in a way a beer trub layer is not.

In a carboy that means racking carefully off a deep bed, repeatedly, and every rack is an oxygen exposure. In a cone you open the dump valve and the lees leave from the bottom, with the mead undisturbed above it. For a melomel with two or three fruit additions, that is a real workflow advantage.

Secondary benefits for any mead:

  • A valve instead of a siphon. Transfers are gentler and you are not restarting a siphon into a narrow neck.
  • Clean lees for yeast reuse, if you are making consecutive meads with the same strain.
  • Closed transfer, on a pressure-rated cone -- pushing mead to its aging vessel under CO2 rather than siphoning through air. For something that will sit for nine months, starting it with less dissolved oxygen is worth having.

Where a cone works against you

The long age

After fermentation, a mead typically sits for six to twelve months. At that point the cone’s geometry becomes a liability rather than an asset.

A conical vessel at part volume presents a wide, flat liquid surface to whatever air is above it. A narrow-necked carboy holding the same volume presents a fraction of that surface area to the same headspace. Over months, surface area in contact with oxygen is what determines how much oxidation you get.

So a conical is not the wrong material -- stainless is ideal, PET less so -- it is the wrong shape for that phase. And a conical kept completely full is impractical, because you need headspace during fermentation and then you have drawn samples.

Material

PET is fine for primary, wrong for aging

Clear PET conicals are attractive for mead primary because you can watch the fruit lees drop and judge exactly when to dump. They are also cheap, which matters when the vessel is one of two you need.

They are the wrong material for the aging phase, for the same reason as everywhere else in this hub: PET is slightly oxygen-permeable, which is immaterial over two weeks and genuinely relevant over nine months. Full argument in stainless vs plastic fermenters.

The picks, in order

Every pick in detail

Plastic conical fermenter on a stand with a dump valve

#1

Best conical for mead

Entry tier

Craft A Brew Catalyst Fermentation System

Craft A Brew

A true cone with a bottom dump valve in clear PET. Dumping fruit lees without racking is exactly what a cone is for on a melomel, and being able to see the layer drop is genuinely useful.

Spec sheet

Capacity
6.5 gal / 25 L
Cone
True cone with a bottom dump valve
Material
Clear PET on a steel stand
Pressure
No -- atmospheric only
Visibility
Clear -- you can watch the trub drop
Longevity
PET scratches; treat it as a consumable

What it is not good at

PET is the wrong material for months of aging, and the cone shape is the wrong geometry too. A primary vessel, not a home.

Who it is for

Fruited melomels with heavy lees, and brewers who want to see it happen

Clear conical pressure fermenter with a collection butt

#2

Best pressure-capable option

Mid tier

FermZilla Tri-Conical 27 L

KegLand

The collection butt dumps fruit lees cleanly, and with the pressure kit you can push the mead to its aging vessel under CO2 rather than siphoning through air.

Spec sheet

Capacity
27 L / 7.1 gal (also 55 L)
Cone
Detachable collection butt for yeast harvest
Fitting
3 in tri-clover ferrule molded into the tank
Valve
Redesigned tri-clover dump valve
Material
Clear PET body
Pressure
Yes, with the pressure kit

What it is not good at

Pressure kit is extra. Still PET, so still a primary vessel rather than an aging one.

Who it is for

Mead makers who want closed transfer to a glass aging vessel

Welded stainless conical fermenter with tri-clamp ports

#3

Best stainless cone

Prosumer tier

Spike Brewing CF5 Conical Fermenter

Spike Brewing

Welded stainless with a dump valve and pressure capability. If you already have one, it is an excellent mead primary and you lose nothing by using it.

Spec sheet

Capacity
8 gal / 30 L (5 gal batch)
Material
Welded 304 stainless, no crevices
Pressure
Rated for pressure transfer and spunding
Ports
Tri-clamp throughout
Cone
Full cone with a dump valve
Options
Cooling coil, thermowell, CIP arm

What it is not good at

Buying one for mead specifically is the wrong purchase -- the shape does not suit the long aging that follows.

Who it is for

Mead makers who already own one for beer

Glass demijohn with a bung and airlock

#4

Where the mead goes next

Entry tier

Glass Demijohn 5-6 Gallon

Various

The honest companion to any conical mead primary. Narrow neck, perfect oxygen barrier, and cheap enough to own several.

Spec sheet

Capacity
5-6 gal (smaller sizes common in Europe)
Material
Glass -- fully oxygen-impermeable
Neck
Narrow, takes a #6.5 or #7 bung
Cleaning
Needs a carboy brush; no wide access
Weight
Heavy full; use a milk-crate carrier
Best for
Long bulk aging where oxygen is the enemy

What it is not good at

Heavy, fragile and hard to inspect. You still have to keep it full.

Who it is for

The months of aging after primary

Variable capacity stainless wine tank with a floating lid

#5

The one vessel that does both

Prosumer tier

Variable-Capacity Stainless Wine Tank

Speidel / Marchisio

A floating lid eliminates headspace at every volume, so one vessel can ferment and then age without a transfer or a topping-up routine.

Spec sheet

Capacity
30 L to 100 L and beyond
Lid
Floating lid with an inflatable gasket
Headspace
Adjustable -- the lid drops to the wine line
Material
304 stainless
Valve
Racking valve, optional thermowell
Why it matters
Solves the part-full-carboy oxidation problem

What it is not good at

Expensive, and no cone -- so lees removal means racking rather than dumping.

Who it is for

Mead makers who want a single vessel from pitch to bottle

FAQ

Questions brewers actually ask

Is a conical fermenter good for mead?

For primary fermentation, yes, especially for fruited melomels where the lees layer is thick and a dump valve saves repeated racking. For the months of aging that follow, no: a part-full conical presents a wide flat liquid surface to its headspace, which is the worst geometry for long aging. Use a cone for primary and glass or a floating-lid tank for aging.

What size conical fermenter do I need for mead?

The same rule as beer: 20 to 25 percent above your batch volume, so 6.5 to 8 gallons for a 5 gallon mead. Mead fermentations are less foamy than beer but still need headspace, and a fruited melomel with fruit floating on top needs more rather than less. Remember you will transfer out of it for aging anyway.

Can I age mead in a conical fermenter?

You can, and it is not the best vessel for it. The material may be ideal if it is stainless, but the shape is not: a conical at part volume exposes a wide flat liquid surface to its headspace, where a narrow-necked carboy exposes a fraction of that surface to the same volume of air. Over six to twelve months, that surface area is what determines oxidation.

Why use a conical for a melomel specifically?

Because fruit contributes far more solids than honey does. Pulp, skins, seeds and pectin all settle into a thick lees layer, and in a carboy that means racking carefully off a deep bed several times, with each rack exposing the mead to oxygen. A dump valve removes the lees from the bottom with the mead undisturbed above it.

Is a plastic conical ok for mead?

For primary fermentation, yes, and being able to watch the fruit lees drop is genuinely useful. For the aging phase, no: PET is slightly oxygen-permeable, which is immaterial across a two-week beer fermentation and relevant across a nine-month mead. Transfer to glass or stainless once primary fermentation slows.

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